Discussion:
ALL ABOUT BYPASS
(too old to reply)
Howard Davis
2011-04-16 19:06:04 UTC
Permalink
ALL ABOUT BYPASS
© 2004 H. Davis
This is one of several technical articles on my website:
http://www.howardmickdavis.com/home.htm

BYPASS, DIRECT BYPASS, TRUE BYPASS, etc. have been ambiguously applied
terms. There are several methods of bypassing the effect circuitry in guitar
effects pedals to get dry (unprocessed) signal at the output, and each has
certain advantages and disadvantages. I'd like to propose more specific
terminology here to clear up the confusion:

BYPASS of all types makes the dry (unprocessed) guitar signal available at
the output through the footswitch or other switching circuitry. Without the
preceding terms DIRECT, TRUE, or TOTAL, bypass often means that the dry
signal is taken from the output of a gain or buffer stage following the
input, which is usually an op-amp or transistor. This is also known as
virtual or buffered bypass. The signal is subject to the limitations of that
first stage and its loading on the guitar pickups. With this form of bypass,
in the event of a power failure or dead battery, no signal is available at
the output in either the bypass or effect-on mode. The only advantage of
such a bypass arrangement is the buffering of the signal, which makes it
insensitive to noise pickup and loading effects from the pedals and cables
following it in the signal chain.

DIRECT BYPASS or TRUE BYPASS means the output jack is directly connected
(hard-wired) to the input jack in the bypass mode. The dry signal is thus
available even in the event of a power failure, but it still may be tonally
degraded through the loading of the guitar pickups by the first (input)
stage of the pedal and any pedals and cables connected after it.

TOTAL BYPASS (my term, to distinguish it from the above methods) uses a 2PDT
switch to disconnect the input stage from the input jack in the bypass mode,
as well as to connect the output jack directly to the input jack. Thus there
is no loading effect on the pickups due to the input stage, and direct
signal is still available in the event of power failure. The terms DIRECT
BYPASS and TRUE BYPASS have been used for this in the past, as well as for
the above method where the input stage remains connected. TOTAL BYPASS is
the best descriptive term for the 2PDT switch arrangement that disconnects
the input stage, and this is superior to the other bypass methods. The
presence of a 2PDT switch does not necessarily prove that a pedal has total
bypass, as one pole may be used to operate an effect-on indicating LED. A
3PDT switch is required when such an LED is used along with total bypass.
Circuits have been devised to operate an LED with only a 2PDT switch wired
for total bypass. These are not always reliable, can introduce switching
noise, and to my knowledge are not used in any commercially manufactured
pedals.

Some guitar effects pedals such as the Electro-Harmonix Deluxe Memory Man
have an adjustable gain stage (a drive or level control) at the input that
introduces complications with bypassing methods other than the buffered
bypass it was designed with. This is because with other bypass arrangements
the variable gain can result in a volume mismatch between the dry and
effect-on signals when the switch is thrown. The level control can be set so
the dry and effect-on volumes are the same, but the problem is that this
level setting may not be optimum for signal to noise ratio, which requires
as high a drive level as possible without causing objectionable distortion.
It is also possible with very hot pickups that the effect out signal will
become overdriven before its level can equal that of the dry signal. My
Deluxe Memory Man Hot Pickup mod can correct this.

So you can have a total bypass mod done on such pedals, but you then lose
the ability to adjust the drive level exactly as you might want it for noise
and distortion, and also keep the proper balance between bypass and
effect-on volume levels. In such cases where total bypass may not be
desired, a mod that increases the input impedance of the first stage can be
almost as effective as total bypassing in reducing tonal degradation due to
pickup loading. If you use other pedals or long cables following this pedal,
increasing the input impedance is the better choice, as the benefits of
buffered bypass are retained, which is not the case with total bypassing.

The reissue Deluxe Memory Man now comes from Electro-Harmonix with direct
bypass, but with the input level control stage as it was when wired for
buffered bypass. This is workable with many pickups, but bypass level
matching problems can occur with hot pickups. For Memory Man mods done by
the engineer that designed the pedal, contact me: ***@att.net

A related article, "How Loading and Cables Affect Your Sound and What to Do
About It," can be found at
http://www.howardmickdavis.com/LoadingandCables.htm
Lord Valve
2011-04-16 19:33:35 UTC
Permalink
Howard Davis wrote:

<yawn>

Go take a shower, Howard. And change that
lame-ass 40 year-old picture on your main page -
*you* know, the one where you're standing in
front of some hippie black-light posters, holding
your guitar completely wrong and looking like you
smoked the entire evidence room down at the
Bed-Sty precinct station.

Lord Valve
Asshole
lord valve
2011-04-17 01:37:30 UTC
Permalink
Post by Lord Valve
<yawn>
Go take a shower, Howard.  And change that
lame-ass 40 year-old picture on your main page -
*you* know, the one where you're standing in
front of some hippie black-light posters, holding
your guitar completely wrong and looking like you
smoked the entire evidence room down at the
Bed-Sty precinct station.
Lord Valve
Asshole
You son of of a bitch....I going to tell MIKE................ooh yeah
lord valve
2011-04-17 01:50:28 UTC
Permalink
Post by lord valve
Post by Lord Valve
<yawn>
Go take a shower, Howard.  And change that
lame-ass 40 year-old picture on your main page -
*you* know, the one where you're standing in
front of some hippie black-light posters, holding
your guitar completely wrong and looking like you
smoked the entire evidence room down at the
Bed-Sty precinct station.
Lord Valve
Asshole
You son of of a bitch....I going to tell MIKE................ooh yeah
News flash could willie lost his tube contract - b with mike? Is that
why he is the way he is because howard has connections to mike?
ohh willie please - you son of a bitch
Lord Valve
2011-04-17 13:18:17 UTC
Permalink
Post by lord valve
Post by Lord Valve
<yawn>
Go take a shower, Howard. And change that
lame-ass 40 year-old picture on your main page -
*you* know, the one where you're standing in
front of some hippie black-light posters, holding
your guitar completely wrong and looking like you
smoked the entire evidence room down at the
Bed-Sty precinct station.
Lord Valve
Asshole
You son of of a bitch....I going to tell MIKE................ooh yeah
Subject:
Re: WTF? 230 S Broadway Denver, CO 80209 Neighborhood:
Southwest(303) 778-1156?
Date:
Sun, 17 Apr 2011 06:58:46 -0600
From:
Lord Valve <***@ix.netcom.com>
Organization:
LESAD (Leftists Eat Shit and Die)
Newsgroups:
alt.guitar.amps
References:
1 , 2
Post by lord valve
Post by Lord Valve
Hey old timer, I reckon you tripped the fandango....considering what
THEY have to say about you as of lately.
my my my, you silly raciest. Is Mike still supplying you with "glass"?
Naw....comon, tell the truth.
You no good son of a bitch :)
Are you going to the wedding? Ray is. He done got a magic wire. M'
Lady the human shit is included. haw haw
What a perferct pair.
You no good son of a bitch. :)
Let us guess now, your home schooled ended up marrying a porno star
"male nigger"? haw haw
You no good son of a bitch. :) You goddamn nigger loving father in
law. There I said it!
To which the real LV replied:

Jack Daniels is good shit, huh, Frootz.

Think where you'd be if you didn't drink...

----------------------------------------------

"MESSAGE FROM A BOTTLE"

I spied a tube upon the stair
A little tube that wasn't there
And when I dared to plug it in
It arced and fizzed and smelled of gin.

At first it made a feeble buzz
The signal out was mostly fuzz
The cathode glowed a surly red
But it performed like it was dead.

"This thing is fritzed," did I surmise
But suddenly, to my surprise
The bottle deigned to amplify
And from within, this plaintive cry:

"Oh, help me sir, for I'm not here!
My master's worked on me for years
But no-one sees me, none at all
For I'm submerged in alcohol."

I paused and pondered - what to do?
How could I aid this nowhere tube?
Whose sotted builder specified
A highly Rippled plate supply?

"Oh little bulb who is not here
I fear it will be forty years
And sixty-seven thousand beers
Before your music reaches ears."

The little tube that wasn't there
Became translucent in despair
And as it faded faintly swore
"Quoth the Fatman, 'Nevermore.'"

I sat alone upon the stair,
A tube-shaped vapor lingered there;
And as its remnants blew away
I knew the scene would not replay.

As thermionic goodies go,
Fictitious tubes are rated low
For what you cannot touch or smell
Is awfully goddamned hard to sell.


--------------------------------------


This work is a parody of the poem
"Antigonish," by William Hughes
Mearns (1875-1965)

Copyright Lord Valve/Willie Whittaker
September 24, 2003 - may be freely used
with proper attribution.
Howard Davis
2011-04-17 14:59:44 UTC
Permalink
Post by Lord Valve
<yawn>
Go take a shower, Howard. And change that
lame-ass 40 year-old picture on your main page -
*you* know, the one where you're standing in
front of some hippie black-light posters, holding
your guitar completely wrong and looking like you
smoked the entire evidence room down at the
Bed-Sty precinct station.
Lord Valve
Asshole
As he has called himself an asshole, there is no need for anyone else to do
so. Why stoop to his level?

I presented here an informative technical article intended to educate
readers.
What "Lord Valve" followed it up with - well, YOU can decide what it
signifies!

Guitar pedal design engineering, repairs, and custom mods:
http://howardmickdavis.com
lord valve
2011-04-17 02:09:04 UTC
Permalink
Post by Lord Valve
<yawn>
Go take a shower, Howard.  And change that
lame-ass 40 year-old picture on your main page -
*you* know, the one where you're standing in
front of some hippie black-light posters, holding
your guitar completely wrong and looking like you
smoked the entire evidence room down at the
Bed-Sty precinct station.
Lord Valve
Asshole
omg god it has gone viral, i posted this to some guy from blackstar
and he thought it was very rude for wille to talk that way about other
people.
and he is going to put the word out,

Howard Davis is a nice guy and a guru for that is all that is good.
And a brilliant person. All around good people.

Lord valve? not so much Lord Valve is a pig like racist with no
spiritual compass,
RichL
2011-04-17 15:21:38 UTC
Permalink
Post by Howard Davis
ALL ABOUT BYPASS
© 2004 H. Davis
http://www.howardmickdavis.com/home.htm
BYPASS, DIRECT BYPASS, TRUE BYPASS, etc. have been ambiguously applied
terms. There are several methods of bypassing the effect circuitry in
guitar effects pedals to get dry (unprocessed) signal at the output, and
each has certain advantages and disadvantages. I'd like to propose more
BYPASS of all types makes the dry (unprocessed) guitar signal available at
the output through the footswitch or other switching circuitry. Without
the preceding terms DIRECT, TRUE, or TOTAL, bypass often means that the
dry signal is taken from the output of a gain or buffer stage following
the input, which is usually an op-amp or transistor. This is also known as
virtual or buffered bypass. The signal is subject to the limitations of
that first stage and its loading on the guitar pickups. With this form of
bypass, in the event of a power failure or dead battery, no signal is
available at the output in either the bypass or effect-on mode. The only
advantage of such a bypass arrangement is the buffering of the signal,
which makes it insensitive to noise pickup and loading effects from the
pedals and cables following it in the signal chain.
DIRECT BYPASS or TRUE BYPASS means the output jack is directly connected
(hard-wired) to the input jack in the bypass mode. The dry signal is thus
available even in the event of a power failure, but it still may be
tonally degraded through the loading of the guitar pickups by the first
(input) stage of the pedal and any pedals and cables connected after it.
TOTAL BYPASS (my term, to distinguish it from the above methods) uses a
2PDT switch to disconnect the input stage from the input jack in the
bypass mode, as well as to connect the output jack directly to the input
jack. Thus there is no loading effect on the pickups due to the input
stage, and direct signal is still available in the event of power failure.
The terms DIRECT BYPASS and TRUE BYPASS have been used for this in the
past, as well as for the above method where the input stage remains
connected. TOTAL BYPASS is the best descriptive term for the 2PDT switch
arrangement that disconnects the input stage, and this is superior to the
other bypass methods. The presence of a 2PDT switch does not necessarily
prove that a pedal has total bypass, as one pole may be used to operate an
effect-on indicating LED. A 3PDT switch is required when such an LED is
used along with total bypass. Circuits have been devised to operate an LED
with only a 2PDT switch wired for total bypass. These are not always
reliable, can introduce switching noise, and to my knowledge are not used
in any commercially manufactured pedals.
Some guitar effects pedals such as the Electro-Harmonix Deluxe Memory Man
have an adjustable gain stage (a drive or level control) at the input that
introduces complications with bypassing methods other than the buffered
bypass it was designed with. This is because with other bypass
arrangements the variable gain can result in a volume mismatch between the
dry and effect-on signals when the switch is thrown. The level control can
be set so the dry and effect-on volumes are the same, but the problem is
that this level setting may not be optimum for signal to noise ratio,
which requires as high a drive level as possible without causing
objectionable distortion. It is also possible with very hot pickups that
the effect out signal will become overdriven before its level can equal
that of the dry signal. My Deluxe Memory Man Hot Pickup mod can correct
this.
So you can have a total bypass mod done on such pedals, but you then lose
the ability to adjust the drive level exactly as you might want it for
noise and distortion, and also keep the proper balance between bypass and
effect-on volume levels. In such cases where total bypass may not be
desired, a mod that increases the input impedance of the first stage can
be almost as effective as total bypassing in reducing tonal degradation
due to pickup loading. If you use other pedals or long cables following
this pedal, increasing the input impedance is the better choice, as the
benefits of buffered bypass are retained, which is not the case with total
bypassing.
The reissue Deluxe Memory Man now comes from Electro-Harmonix with direct
bypass, but with the input level control stage as it was when wired for
buffered bypass. This is workable with many pickups, but bypass level
matching problems can occur with hot pickups. For Memory Man mods done by
A related article, "How Loading and Cables Affect Your Sound and What to
Do About It," can be found at
http://www.howardmickdavis.com/LoadingandCables.htm
I recall reading an article on the web a few years ago, I believe it was
written by Greg Fryer although I can't seem to find it now. Your post, as
well as the article you reference at the end, is reminiscent of Fryer's (??)
comments although as I recall his view of the virtues of true (or total)
bypass was more skeptical than your own. He emphasizes the loading issue of
several true bypass pedals connected together (simply by virtue of the total
cable length involved).

Another related point is the choice of pot resistances in guitars (depending
on the pickup resistances). This can be understood by considering the
overall effects of pickup inductance, pot resistance, and overall cable
capacitance (as well as amp or first pedal input impedance), particularly in
determining the frequency at which the L-R resonance occurs (usually
somewhere between 1 and 5 kHz), which our ears associate with the
characteristic "tone" of a guitar, as well as the sharpness ("Q") of that
resonance.

Cable C is usually the determining capacitance, pickup capacitance usually
being small compared with that of even a 10' cable. Too long a cable (read
here: total cable length through a chain of true-bypass pedals) pushes the
resonance to lower frequencies, robbing a guitar of "sparkle", especially
one equipped with *hot* pickups for which pot resistances are
inappropriately low.

I found your post and article to be enjoyable reading, but the only negative
comment I have is that introducing yet another term ("total bypass") seems
to me to be counterproductive. I think most of us recognize the term "true
bypass" as meaning "input stage disconnected" and consider pedals that claim
to be "true bypass" but that do not do this as simply marketing hype.
Lord Valve
2011-04-17 16:48:48 UTC
Permalink
Post by RichL
Post by Howard Davis
ALL ABOUT BYPASS
© 2004 H. Davis
http://www.howardmickdavis.com/home.htm
BYPASS, DIRECT BYPASS, TRUE BYPASS, etc. have been ambiguously applied
terms. There are several methods of bypassing the effect circuitry in
guitar effects pedals to get dry (unprocessed) signal at the output, and
each has certain advantages and disadvantages. I'd like to propose more
BYPASS of all types makes the dry (unprocessed) guitar signal available at
the output through the footswitch or other switching circuitry. Without
the preceding terms DIRECT, TRUE, or TOTAL, bypass often means that the
dry signal is taken from the output of a gain or buffer stage following
the input, which is usually an op-amp or transistor. This is also known as
virtual or buffered bypass. The signal is subject to the limitations of
that first stage and its loading on the guitar pickups. With this form of
bypass, in the event of a power failure or dead battery, no signal is
available at the output in either the bypass or effect-on mode. The only
advantage of such a bypass arrangement is the buffering of the signal,
which makes it insensitive to noise pickup and loading effects from the
pedals and cables following it in the signal chain.
DIRECT BYPASS or TRUE BYPASS means the output jack is directly connected
(hard-wired) to the input jack in the bypass mode. The dry signal is thus
available even in the event of a power failure, but it still may be
tonally degraded through the loading of the guitar pickups by the first
(input) stage of the pedal and any pedals and cables connected after it.
TOTAL BYPASS (my term, to distinguish it from the above methods) uses a
2PDT switch to disconnect the input stage from the input jack in the
bypass mode, as well as to connect the output jack directly to the input
jack. Thus there is no loading effect on the pickups due to the input
stage, and direct signal is still available in the event of power failure.
The terms DIRECT BYPASS and TRUE BYPASS have been used for this in the
past, as well as for the above method where the input stage remains
connected. TOTAL BYPASS is the best descriptive term for the 2PDT switch
arrangement that disconnects the input stage, and this is superior to the
other bypass methods. The presence of a 2PDT switch does not necessarily
prove that a pedal has total bypass, as one pole may be used to operate an
effect-on indicating LED. A 3PDT switch is required when such an LED is
used along with total bypass. Circuits have been devised to operate an LED
with only a 2PDT switch wired for total bypass. These are not always
reliable, can introduce switching noise, and to my knowledge are not used
in any commercially manufactured pedals.
Some guitar effects pedals such as the Electro-Harmonix Deluxe Memory Man
have an adjustable gain stage (a drive or level control) at the input that
introduces complications with bypassing methods other than the buffered
bypass it was designed with. This is because with other bypass
arrangements the variable gain can result in a volume mismatch between the
dry and effect-on signals when the switch is thrown. The level control can
be set so the dry and effect-on volumes are the same, but the problem is
that this level setting may not be optimum for signal to noise ratio,
which requires as high a drive level as possible without causing
objectionable distortion. It is also possible with very hot pickups that
the effect out signal will become overdriven before its level can equal
that of the dry signal. My Deluxe Memory Man Hot Pickup mod can correct
this.
So you can have a total bypass mod done on such pedals, but you then lose
the ability to adjust the drive level exactly as you might want it for
noise and distortion, and also keep the proper balance between bypass and
effect-on volume levels. In such cases where total bypass may not be
desired, a mod that increases the input impedance of the first stage can
be almost as effective as total bypassing in reducing tonal degradation
due to pickup loading. If you use other pedals or long cables following
this pedal, increasing the input impedance is the better choice, as the
benefits of buffered bypass are retained, which is not the case with total
bypassing.
The reissue Deluxe Memory Man now comes from Electro-Harmonix with direct
bypass, but with the input level control stage as it was when wired for
buffered bypass. This is workable with many pickups, but bypass level
matching problems can occur with hot pickups. For Memory Man mods done by
A related article, "How Loading and Cables Affect Your Sound and What to
Do About It," can be found at
http://www.howardmickdavis.com/LoadingandCables.htm
I recall reading an article on the web a few years ago, I believe it was
written by Greg Fryer although I can't seem to find it now. Your post, as
well as the article you reference at the end, is reminiscent of Fryer's (??)
comments although as I recall his view of the virtues of true (or total)
bypass was more skeptical than your own. He emphasizes the loading issue of
several true bypass pedals connected together (simply by virtue of the total
cable length involved).
Another related point is the choice of pot resistances in guitars (depending
on the pickup resistances). This can be understood by considering the
overall effects of pickup inductance, pot resistance, and overall cable
capacitance (as well as amp or first pedal input impedance), particularly in
determining the frequency at which the L-R resonance occurs (usually
somewhere between 1 and 5 kHz), which our ears associate with the
characteristic "tone" of a guitar, as well as the sharpness ("Q") of that
resonance.
Cable C is usually the determining capacitance, pickup capacitance usually
being small compared with that of even a 10' cable. Too long a cable (read
here: total cable length through a chain of true-bypass pedals) pushes the
resonance to lower frequencies, robbing a guitar of "sparkle", especially
one equipped with *hot* pickups for which pot resistances are
inappropriately low.
I found your post and article to be enjoyable reading,
Really? Not much technical mojo there, I'm afraid.

Mostly, it was a commercial. Spam, in fact, crossposted
five ways. Probably didn't have a high enough Breidbart
score to raise any newsadmin eyebrows, though...
Post by RichL
but the only negative
comment I have is that introducing yet another term ("total bypass") seems
to me to be counterproductive. I think most of us recognize the term "true
bypass" as meaning "input stage disconnected" and consider pedals that claim
to be "true bypass" but that do not do this as simply marketing hype.
I covered this much more thoroughly over three years ago...

Please whine about it, there's a good lad:


-------------------------------------------------------------------------------


Message from discussion I need some input from you guys

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From: Lord Valve <***@ix.netcom.com>
Newsgroups: alt.guitar
Subject: Re: I need some input from you guys
Date: Fri, 01 Feb 2008 10:03:45 -0700
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Post by RichL
Post by Howard Davis
In which order do you guys suggest I put this new entourage of pedals to
get
* Crybaby Wah
* Fulldrive 2 Distortion
* Boss DS2-Turbo
* Electro-Harmonix Big Muff Pi
* Fulltone Fat-Boost (first one) (considering replacing it with MXR Micro
Amp too)
* A true bypass loop switch ( I tend to hang the modulation gear in that
circle but open to suggestions. The tuner also comes directly out of this
so
sound can be turned off whilst tuning up)
* Boss PH-2 Phaser
* Boss DD-3 Digital Delay
* Boss TU-15 Tuner
* Boss CE-20 Chorus Ensemble
* Line6 FM4 (mainly for the Obi-Wah effect)
* Moog MF-101 (Lowpass Filter)
My thoughts so far are that because the Moog has a bit of a drive dial on
it
and that isn't bypassed when its off, I would put that last in the chain
(Rufus, your input especially at this point is well regarded). I don't
really want it to colour up the distortion pedals and would mainly like
to
hit the clean sound. I use the Fat-Boost in a pretty clean state so just
as
a boost for the Jag for instance (it aint as loud as my other babies) so
perhaps that might go first. I think I should put the chorus ensemble in
the
loop as well as the phaser and digital delay and postition the loop
toward
the end of the chain.
I use the Fulldrive 2 for more crunchy distortions as its not really an
over
the top kinda thing. Definately the Muff should be for screaming solos
and
the DS2 more for heavier chord progressions.
I really dont have much of an idea so all input will be well received.
Thanks bois.
PS: Dont mean to be repetitive on the new acquisitions either so consider
this a clear presentation of my inventory only. :)
Holy shit.
Is anything gonna be *left* after your signal gets through
all of that crap? You might try using the same effects
1) Guitar
2) Cable
3) Amp
Seems to produce some rather good tone...
Im familiar with the concept.....
That's a pretty good answer. ;-)

However - there are some things at play here you may not have
considered. You've got thirteen devices in your string, including
the tuner and the bypass switch, not including the guitar and the
amplifier. I couldn't tell from your post exactly what the bypass
loop bypasses, but for purposes of this discussion, I'll treat it
as being in the non-bypassed mode. Some of your pedals will
be true-bypass types (probably) and some will not; let's assume
that you have your signal going through ALL of the pedals at
once, with ALL of them turned off/bypassed. Let's also assume
that you have an average of six inches of cable between each
effect, and that the cable is a good low-capacitance type like
the Bill Lawrence, at around 20pF per foot. So, thirteen devices
at 6" per cable uses 12 cables for a total of six feet of cabling
for the pedalboard. That's 120pF of capacitance, a fairly
trivial amount.

There are lots of folks who obsess over cable capacitance,
buying the lowest capacitance cable they can find and using
the shortest wiring scheme they can devise. Very few of them
ever take into account the capacitance of the PLUGS, two of
which are required for each cable. A quick check of the
6 plugs I commonly use in my shop (Switchcraft 280, 226,
228; Neutrik NP2C, NP2RCS, NP2RC) gives an average
of 23pF each. There will be 24 of these on the 12 patch
cables in your string, which adds up to 672pF including
the cable itself. Still not huge, but now we start to get
into the intrinsic capacitance of the effects themselves,
which would include wiring-to-chassis capacitance,
female connector capacitance, capacitance for any
mechanical switches the signal may be routed through,
etc. Also in the equation will be the ultimate input/output
cables: guitar to pedalboard, pedalboard to amp. That's
four more plugs and maybe 20 feet of cable. No way to
tell the total amount of capacitance in your rig's wiring,
but you've got at least 1164pF in the male connectors and
cabling.

That capacitance is going to be there whether the pedals
are bypassed or not, unless some are completely removed
by the switchable loop.

Now - let's look at something else most folks don't
consider - mechanical interfaces for the signal, i.e.,
connectors mating surfaces Each connection consists
of a male plug and a female jack. For your rig, that works
out to 56 connectors your signal must pass through
when the string is fully engaged. ANY ONE of these
could have enough crud on it to degrade the signal
somewhat, and ALL of them probably do. If any of
them have the plating (usually nickel) worn off, the
base material of the connector (usually brass or
another copper-based alloy) will be exposed to the
atmosphere and thus corroded. The oxides produced
when copper corrodes are semi-conductive, and
make jillions of tiny diodes which your signal must
punch through; this can impart a subtle underlying
"fuzz" that's noticeable when playing clean at low
volume. These diodes induce a condition known
as "contact rectification," which can also make
AM/FM radio stations or communications radio or other
RF sources appear as audio along with your signal.

You'll need to be especially vigilant when it comes
to connector maintenance; if you wipe them down
with Caig DeOxIt once in a while, you should be
relatively OK. You'll also want to "exercise" the
plugs/jacks every so often by pugging them and
unplugging them 5 times each or so; the wiping
action of doing this helps remove contaminants
from the mating surfaces.

You might also want to consider that each effects
pedal will have its own intrinsic (self-) noise, and
that this noise can be amplified by pedals downstream.
The more pedals you engage, the noisier your signal
will become - period. This is usually not much of
a problem for the typical 3 or 4 pedals folks use
together (unless the gain settings are extreme)
but you should consider that the pedals in your
string which are not hardwired ("true") bypass
types will put your signal through at least a couple
of transistors or ICs *per pedal* and each of those
transistors/ICs will add noise to your signal.

With that many gizmos in line, I really can't see
you not having a problem with noise or degradation
of some sort. You may want to consider one of
the digital floor consoles, which, while doing a fairly
average job of emulating some of the classic
analog effects, will at least have only one input and
one output, and add less crap/hum/noise than a
huge effects string does. They'll also offer you
the option of reconfiguring the effects order without
the major hassle of re-positioning things on the
pedalboard or buying/making new cables for
the new configuration.

I've got it a bit easier: a Hammond XK-3, an XK-3c,
a Roland Fantom X-6, and a mixer/amp rack. Short
runs, nearly all balanced. Digital. Kickass. ;-)

BTW, there are two tubes in each of the Hammonds,
which I rarely engage. (I'm a clean player.)

Good luck with all that stuff...keep the cables short
and the connectors clean or you'll be drowning in
noise.

Lord Valve
Expert
Bruno Puntz Jones
2011-04-17 18:27:59 UTC
Permalink
The chain of command goes brain-fingers-guitar-cable
<or insert effects here>-amp. How said brain connects with
etc sort of ends at the guitar. Plug w/no effects into a
REAL Hiwatt. Your cord hits grid. That is why some EFFECTS
work better with such amps, that have lower or even no
input resistor (aka Hiwatt). The Range Master t/boost
almost connects the effect to that tube pin, when used
with the Hiwatt (or some Simms Watts, and a few Vox)

This type of MoJo is going away, since 99+% of the
dog shit sold today by anyone has no clue to the real
MoJo that developed YOUR idea of to get YOUR SOUND!

Of course, whatever 'big hit single' one got one's jollys
from also dictates what amp/guitar/effect one thinks is kool.

Brand name, and all that kind'oh rot...
Post by Lord Valve
Good luck with all that stuff...keep the cables short
and the connectors clean or you'll be drowning in
noise.
So very true. When I started hand drafting PCBs, every
bit of info I saw demanded that things be, and I quote:

"..short and clean.." to reduce "..noise and increase range.."

Pack THAT reality into ya iPhat and stick it under a rock..
Post by Lord Valve
Lord Valve
Expert
Old enough at least.

It really gets to the point of having enough history
to know the sleet from the snow, which LV and others
(including me) have stepped in enough times anyway..

I hate to bring it up, LV, but the guys have asked me
a few times what ya thought of their CD. We're into
2nd press. For 79-8whatever, was it THAT bad?

email me directly, or reply here..up to you.

BTW..what got fritz up ya arse these days?

..I mean, besides his wine n 'roses'...



JJTj





www.univaz.com

('technology, with honor')
Tony Done
2011-04-17 20:20:11 UTC
Permalink
Post by Lord Valve
Post by RichL
Post by Howard Davis
ALL ABOUT BYPASS
© 2004 H. Davis
http://www.howardmickdavis.com/home.htm
BYPASS, DIRECT BYPASS, TRUE BYPASS, etc. have been ambiguously applied
terms. There are several methods of bypassing the effect circuitry in
guitar effects pedals to get dry (unprocessed) signal at the output, and
each has certain advantages and disadvantages. I'd like to propose more
BYPASS of all types makes the dry (unprocessed) guitar signal available at
the output through the footswitch or other switching circuitry. Without
the preceding terms DIRECT, TRUE, or TOTAL, bypass often means that the
dry signal is taken from the output of a gain or buffer stage following
the input, which is usually an op-amp or transistor. This is also known as
virtual or buffered bypass. The signal is subject to the limitations of
that first stage and its loading on the guitar pickups. With this form of
bypass, in the event of a power failure or dead battery, no signal is
available at the output in either the bypass or effect-on mode. The only
advantage of such a bypass arrangement is the buffering of the signal,
which makes it insensitive to noise pickup and loading effects from the
pedals and cables following it in the signal chain.
DIRECT BYPASS or TRUE BYPASS means the output jack is directly connected
(hard-wired) to the input jack in the bypass mode. The dry signal is thus
available even in the event of a power failure, but it still may be
tonally degraded through the loading of the guitar pickups by the first
(input) stage of the pedal and any pedals and cables connected after it.
TOTAL BYPASS (my term, to distinguish it from the above methods) uses a
2PDT switch to disconnect the input stage from the input jack in the
bypass mode, as well as to connect the output jack directly to the input
jack. Thus there is no loading effect on the pickups due to the input
stage, and direct signal is still available in the event of power failure.
The terms DIRECT BYPASS and TRUE BYPASS have been used for this in the
past, as well as for the above method where the input stage remains
connected. TOTAL BYPASS is the best descriptive term for the 2PDT switch
arrangement that disconnects the input stage, and this is superior to the
other bypass methods. The presence of a 2PDT switch does not necessarily
prove that a pedal has total bypass, as one pole may be used to operate an
effect-on indicating LED. A 3PDT switch is required when such an LED is
used along with total bypass. Circuits have been devised to operate an LED
with only a 2PDT switch wired for total bypass. These are not always
reliable, can introduce switching noise, and to my knowledge are not used
in any commercially manufactured pedals.
Some guitar effects pedals such as the Electro-Harmonix Deluxe Memory Man
have an adjustable gain stage (a drive or level control) at the input that
introduces complications with bypassing methods other than the buffered
bypass it was designed with. This is because with other bypass
arrangements the variable gain can result in a volume mismatch between the
dry and effect-on signals when the switch is thrown. The level control can
be set so the dry and effect-on volumes are the same, but the problem is
that this level setting may not be optimum for signal to noise ratio,
which requires as high a drive level as possible without causing
objectionable distortion. It is also possible with very hot pickups that
the effect out signal will become overdriven before its level can equal
that of the dry signal. My Deluxe Memory Man Hot Pickup mod can correct
this.
So you can have a total bypass mod done on such pedals, but you then lose
the ability to adjust the drive level exactly as you might want it for
noise and distortion, and also keep the proper balance between bypass and
effect-on volume levels. In such cases where total bypass may not be
desired, a mod that increases the input impedance of the first stage can
be almost as effective as total bypassing in reducing tonal degradation
due to pickup loading. If you use other pedals or long cables following
this pedal, increasing the input impedance is the better choice, as the
benefits of buffered bypass are retained, which is not the case with total
bypassing.
The reissue Deluxe Memory Man now comes from Electro-Harmonix with direct
bypass, but with the input level control stage as it was when wired for
buffered bypass. This is workable with many pickups, but bypass level
matching problems can occur with hot pickups. For Memory Man mods done by
A related article, "How Loading and Cables Affect Your Sound and What to
Do About It," can be found at
http://www.howardmickdavis.com/LoadingandCables.htm
I recall reading an article on the web a few years ago, I believe it was
written by Greg Fryer although I can't seem to find it now. Your post, as
well as the article you reference at the end, is reminiscent of Fryer's (??)
comments although as I recall his view of the virtues of true (or total)
bypass was more skeptical than your own. He emphasizes the loading issue of
several true bypass pedals connected together (simply by virtue of the total
cable length involved).
Another related point is the choice of pot resistances in guitars (depending
on the pickup resistances). This can be understood by considering the
overall effects of pickup inductance, pot resistance, and overall cable
capacitance (as well as amp or first pedal input impedance), particularly in
determining the frequency at which the L-R resonance occurs (usually
somewhere between 1 and 5 kHz), which our ears associate with the
characteristic "tone" of a guitar, as well as the sharpness ("Q") of that
resonance.
Cable C is usually the determining capacitance, pickup capacitance usually
being small compared with that of even a 10' cable. Too long a cable (read
here: total cable length through a chain of true-bypass pedals) pushes the
resonance to lower frequencies, robbing a guitar of "sparkle", especially
one equipped with *hot* pickups for which pot resistances are
inappropriately low.
I found your post and article to be enjoyable reading,
Really? Not much technical mojo there, I'm afraid.
Mostly, it was a commercial. Spam, in fact, crossposted
five ways. Probably didn't have a high enough Breidbart
score to raise any newsadmin eyebrows, though...
Post by RichL
but the only negative
comment I have is that introducing yet another term ("total bypass") seems
to me to be counterproductive. I think most of us recognize the term "true
bypass" as meaning "input stage disconnected" and consider pedals that claim
to be "true bypass" but that do not do this as simply marketing hype.
I covered this much more thoroughly over three years ago...
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Message from discussion I need some input from you guys
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Newsgroups: alt.guitar
Subject: Re: I need some input from you guys
Date: Fri, 01 Feb 2008 10:03:45 -0700
Organization: Posted via Supernews, http://www.supernews.com
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Post by RichL
Post by Howard Davis
In which order do you guys suggest I put this new entourage of pedals to
get
* Crybaby Wah
* Fulldrive 2 Distortion
* Boss DS2-Turbo
* Electro-Harmonix Big Muff Pi
* Fulltone Fat-Boost (first one) (considering replacing it with MXR Micro
Amp too)
* A true bypass loop switch ( I tend to hang the modulation gear in that
circle but open to suggestions. The tuner also comes directly out of this
so
sound can be turned off whilst tuning up)
* Boss PH-2 Phaser
* Boss DD-3 Digital Delay
* Boss TU-15 Tuner
* Boss CE-20 Chorus Ensemble
* Line6 FM4 (mainly for the Obi-Wah effect)
* Moog MF-101 (Lowpass Filter)
My thoughts so far are that because the Moog has a bit of a drive dial on
it
and that isn't bypassed when its off, I would put that last in the chain
(Rufus, your input especially at this point is well regarded). I don't
really want it to colour up the distortion pedals and would mainly like
to
hit the clean sound. I use the Fat-Boost in a pretty clean state so just
as
a boost for the Jag for instance (it aint as loud as my other babies) so
perhaps that might go first. I think I should put the chorus ensemble in
the
loop as well as the phaser and digital delay and postition the loop
toward
the end of the chain.
I use the Fulldrive 2 for more crunchy distortions as its not really an
over
the top kinda thing. Definately the Muff should be for screaming solos
and
the DS2 more for heavier chord progressions.
I really dont have much of an idea so all input will be well received.
Thanks bois.
PS: Dont mean to be repetitive on the new acquisitions either so consider
this a clear presentation of my inventory only. :)
Holy shit.
Is anything gonna be *left* after your signal gets through
all of that crap? You might try using the same effects
1) Guitar
2) Cable
3) Amp
Seems to produce some rather good tone...
Im familiar with the concept.....
That's a pretty good answer. ;-)
However - there are some things at play here you may not have
considered. You've got thirteen devices in your string, including
the tuner and the bypass switch, not including the guitar and the
amplifier. I couldn't tell from your post exactly what the bypass
loop bypasses, but for purposes of this discussion, I'll treat it
as being in the non-bypassed mode. Some of your pedals will
be true-bypass types (probably) and some will not; let's assume
that you have your signal going through ALL of the pedals at
once, with ALL of them turned off/bypassed. Let's also assume
that you have an average of six inches of cable between each
effect, and that the cable is a good low-capacitance type like
the Bill Lawrence, at around 20pF per foot. So, thirteen devices
at 6" per cable uses 12 cables for a total of six feet of cabling
for the pedalboard. That's 120pF of capacitance, a fairly
trivial amount.
There are lots of folks who obsess over cable capacitance,
buying the lowest capacitance cable they can find and using
the shortest wiring scheme they can devise. Very few of them
ever take into account the capacitance of the PLUGS, two of
which are required for each cable. A quick check of the
6 plugs I commonly use in my shop (Switchcraft 280, 226,
228; Neutrik NP2C, NP2RCS, NP2RC) gives an average
of 23pF each. There will be 24 of these on the 12 patch
cables in your string, which adds up to 672pF including
the cable itself. Still not huge, but now we start to get
into the intrinsic capacitance of the effects themselves,
which would include wiring-to-chassis capacitance,
female connector capacitance, capacitance for any
mechanical switches the signal may be routed through,
etc. Also in the equation will be the ultimate input/output
cables: guitar to pedalboard, pedalboard to amp. That's
four more plugs and maybe 20 feet of cable. No way to
tell the total amount of capacitance in your rig's wiring,
but you've got at least 1164pF in the male connectors and
cabling.
That capacitance is going to be there whether the pedals
are bypassed or not, unless some are completely removed
by the switchable loop.
Now - let's look at something else most folks don't
consider - mechanical interfaces for the signal, i.e.,
connectors mating surfaces Each connection consists
of a male plug and a female jack. For your rig, that works
out to 56 connectors your signal must pass through
when the string is fully engaged. ANY ONE of these
could have enough crud on it to degrade the signal
somewhat, and ALL of them probably do. If any of
them have the plating (usually nickel) worn off, the
base material of the connector (usually brass or
another copper-based alloy) will be exposed to the
atmosphere and thus corroded. The oxides produced
when copper corrodes are semi-conductive, and
make jillions of tiny diodes which your signal must
punch through; this can impart a subtle underlying
"fuzz" that's noticeable when playing clean at low
volume. These diodes induce a condition known
as "contact rectification," which can also make
AM/FM radio stations or communications radio or other
RF sources appear as audio along with your signal.
You'll need to be especially vigilant when it comes
to connector maintenance; if you wipe them down
with Caig DeOxIt once in a while, you should be
relatively OK. You'll also want to "exercise" the
plugs/jacks every so often by pugging them and
unplugging them 5 times each or so; the wiping
action of doing this helps remove contaminants
from the mating surfaces.
You might also want to consider that each effects
pedal will have its own intrinsic (self-) noise, and
that this noise can be amplified by pedals downstream.
The more pedals you engage, the noisier your signal
will become - period. This is usually not much of
a problem for the typical 3 or 4 pedals folks use
together (unless the gain settings are extreme)
but you should consider that the pedals in your
string which are not hardwired ("true") bypass
types will put your signal through at least a couple
of transistors or ICs *per pedal* and each of those
transistors/ICs will add noise to your signal.
With that many gizmos in line, I really can't see
you not having a problem with noise or degradation
of some sort. You may want to consider one of
the digital floor consoles, which, while doing a fairly
average job of emulating some of the classic
analog effects, will at least have only one input and
one output, and add less crap/hum/noise than a
huge effects string does. They'll also offer you
the option of reconfiguring the effects order without
the major hassle of re-positioning things on the
pedalboard or buying/making new cables for
the new configuration.
I've got it a bit easier: a Hammond XK-3, an XK-3c,
a Roland Fantom X-6, and a mixer/amp rack. Short
runs, nearly all balanced. Digital. Kickass. ;-)
BTW, there are two tubes in each of the Hammonds,
which I rarely engage. (I'm a clean player.)
Good luck with all that stuff...keep the cables short
and the connectors clean or you'll be drowning in
noise.
Lord Valve
Expert
Just to add a little "grass roots" comment to this discussion, I have
considered the true bypass switch box (in,out, send, return, indicator
light ) the single most useful pedal I have ever since I built it it. Not
only does it bypass an effects chain, but, as you pointed out to me, it can
be used as a one-into-two or two-into-one or disconnect switch. The
one-into-two is what I use it for most, for switching between amps, or
simply as a disconnect switch for the guitar. I wouldn't be without it,
regardless of the electronic merits of true bypass switching.

Tony D
Howard Davis
2011-04-18 17:49:21 UTC
Permalink
Post by RichL
Post by Howard Davis
ALL ABOUT BYPASS
© 2004 H. Davis
http://www.howardmickdavis.com/home.htm
BYPASS, DIRECT BYPASS, TRUE BYPASS, etc. have been ambiguously applied
terms. There are several methods of bypassing the effect circuitry in
guitar effects pedals to get dry (unprocessed) signal at the output, and
each has certain advantages and disadvantages. I'd like to propose more
BYPASS of all types makes the dry (unprocessed) guitar signal available
at the output through the footswitch or other switching circuitry.
Without the preceding terms DIRECT, TRUE, or TOTAL, bypass often means
that the dry signal is taken from the output of a gain or buffer stage
following the input, which is usually an op-amp or transistor. This is
also known as virtual or buffered bypass. The signal is subject to the
limitations of that first stage and its loading on the guitar pickups.
With this form of bypass, in the event of a power failure or dead
battery, no signal is available at the output in either the bypass or
effect-on mode. The only advantage of such a bypass arrangement is the
buffering of the signal, which makes it insensitive to noise pickup and
loading effects from the pedals and cables following it in the signal
chain.
DIRECT BYPASS or TRUE BYPASS means the output jack is directly connected
(hard-wired) to the input jack in the bypass mode. The dry signal is thus
available even in the event of a power failure, but it still may be
tonally degraded through the loading of the guitar pickups by the first
(input) stage of the pedal and any pedals and cables connected after it.
TOTAL BYPASS (my term, to distinguish it from the above methods) uses a
2PDT switch to disconnect the input stage from the input jack in the
bypass mode, as well as to connect the output jack directly to the input
jack. Thus there is no loading effect on the pickups due to the input
stage, and direct signal is still available in the event of power
failure. The terms DIRECT BYPASS and TRUE BYPASS have been used for this
in the past, as well as for the above method where the input stage
remains connected. TOTAL BYPASS is the best descriptive term for the 2PDT
switch arrangement that disconnects the input stage, and this is superior
to the other bypass methods. The presence of a 2PDT switch does not
necessarily prove that a pedal has total bypass, as one pole may be used
to operate an effect-on indicating LED. A 3PDT switch is required when
such an LED is used along with total bypass. Circuits have been devised
to operate an LED with only a 2PDT switch wired for total bypass. These
are not always reliable, can introduce switching noise, and to my
knowledge are not used in any commercially manufactured pedals.
Some guitar effects pedals such as the Electro-Harmonix Deluxe Memory Man
have an adjustable gain stage (a drive or level control) at the input
that introduces complications with bypassing methods other than the
buffered bypass it was designed with. This is because with other bypass
arrangements the variable gain can result in a volume mismatch between
the dry and effect-on signals when the switch is thrown. The level
control can be set so the dry and effect-on volumes are the same, but the
problem is that this level setting may not be optimum for signal to noise
ratio, which requires as high a drive level as possible without causing
objectionable distortion. It is also possible with very hot pickups that
the effect out signal will become overdriven before its level can equal
that of the dry signal. My Deluxe Memory Man Hot Pickup mod can correct
this.
So you can have a total bypass mod done on such pedals, but you then lose
the ability to adjust the drive level exactly as you might want it for
noise and distortion, and also keep the proper balance between bypass and
effect-on volume levels. In such cases where total bypass may not be
desired, a mod that increases the input impedance of the first stage can
be almost as effective as total bypassing in reducing tonal degradation
due to pickup loading. If you use other pedals or long cables following
this pedal, increasing the input impedance is the better choice, as the
benefits of buffered bypass are retained, which is not the case with
total bypassing.
The reissue Deluxe Memory Man now comes from Electro-Harmonix with direct
bypass, but with the input level control stage as it was when wired for
buffered bypass. This is workable with many pickups, but bypass level
matching problems can occur with hot pickups. For Memory Man mods done by
A related article, "How Loading and Cables Affect Your Sound and What to
Do About It," can be found at
http://www.howardmickdavis.com/LoadingandCables.htm
I recall reading an article on the web a few years ago, I believe it was
written by Greg Fryer although I can't seem to find it now. Your post, as
well as the article you reference at the end, is reminiscent of Fryer's
(??) comments although as I recall his view of the virtues of true (or
total) bypass was more skeptical than your own. He emphasizes the loading
issue of several true bypass pedals connected together (simply by virtue
of the total cable length involved).
Another related point is the choice of pot resistances in guitars
(depending on the pickup resistances). This can be understood by
considering the overall effects of pickup inductance, pot resistance, and
overall cable capacitance (as well as amp or first pedal input impedance),
particularly in determining the frequency at which the L-R resonance
occurs (usually somewhere between 1 and 5 kHz), which our ears associate
with the characteristic "tone" of a guitar, as well as the sharpness ("Q")
of that resonance.
Cable C is usually the determining capacitance, pickup capacitance usually
being small compared with that of even a 10' cable. Too long a cable
(read here: total cable length through a chain of true-bypass pedals)
pushes the resonance to lower frequencies, robbing a guitar of "sparkle",
especially one equipped with *hot* pickups for which pot resistances are
inappropriately low.
I found your post and article to be enjoyable reading, but the only
negative comment I have is that introducing yet another term ("total
bypass") seems to me to be counterproductive. I think most of us
recognize the term "true bypass" as meaning "input stage disconnected" and
consider pedals that claim to be "true bypass" but that do not do this as
simply marketing hype.
Thanks for your opinions.

As I pointed out, the term "true bypass" has been used (and misused) for
more than one possible type of bypass implementation. It does not always
mean the input stage is disconnected. My term TOTAL bypass is not ambiguous,
and that's why I recommend its use - to distinguish it from other "true"
bypass circuit arrangements in which input stage loading remains on the
input.

Yes, resonance between the pickup inductance and cable capacitance can and
does affect tone. It forms a 12 db/octave lowpass, often with a peak before
cutoff. The amount of peaking depends on the Q of the overall circuit.

The best way to eliminate or minimize tonal degradation due to loading is to
use a BUFFER right after the pickups. Also, use good, low capacitance cables
and keep them as short as possible.
Bruno Puntz Jones
2011-04-18 21:07:27 UTC
Permalink
I agree with your thoughts, but just want to tell ya, the term
"Total Bypass" has been used in the MI effect world. While
(IMMSMW) the company used the term loosely, I remember the ads.

I'll try to remember the brand name..not a biggie, I think..


JJTj







It's so weein-e,
..a fantasy free-bee.
No one can see thee,
no, not at all <chuckle>

It's another reflection,
..but with virus infection,
Well secluded,they cookie all.


With a bit of a 'bot' flip

You're locked into the Google trip.

And nothing can ever be the same.


You're spaced out on retention.
Like you're under suspicion.

Let's do the Cross Post again.
Let's do the Cross Post again.

Well I was cruise'n down da groups just a-having a wink
When a spammer of a joke gave me an spy-bot blink.
Got my email off some cross posted coward's lies.
He had a T3 trunk, but Free-Agent eyes.
He ping-ed at me while he logged the drain.
Norton's means nothing, upgrade time again.

Let's do the Cross Post again.
Let's do the Cross Post again.

It's just a TAB to the left.

And then a ctrl-c\v to the right.

With some ALT.in the head's.

You bring your ISP into light.

But it's the porn-o thrust

That really SPAMS yer mem-brain (AINAINAN) !!!

Let's do the Cross Post again
Let's do the Cross Post again.
Howard Davis
2011-04-19 19:00:22 UTC
Permalink
Post by Bruno Puntz Jones
I agree with your thoughts, but just want to tell ya, the term
"Total Bypass" has been used in the MI effect world. While
(IMMSMW) the company used the term loosely, I remember the ads.
I'll try to remember the brand name..not a biggie, I think..
JJTj
I'd be interested to know if this term was actually used by someone else
before I "originated" it, and if it was defined in the same way.
Regardless, it is more specific than "true bypass."

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